Spanish lakes, ridges and heat

The forecast was for 34 degrees and we woke to rain on the skylights. After a swift breakfast we set off from the barn towards Mont Rouch with big packs. Passed the cabane Clos de Dessus and up to the frontier at 2677m, to the east of Mont Rouch where we gained the trail down into Spain and the Refugi Mont Roig. From there we climbed the ladder of lakes to find a camp spot at Etang de Sens where we stripped off for a quick dip to cool down and a cup of tea. My parents may even recognise the mugs as they were bought for our VW camper when I was a teenager. After a couple of hands of cards and a supper of spicy chorizzo and lentils with couscous we retired to the tent for the night.

Up with the alarm to a completely dry tent and an ascent in the shade up to the col between Etang Major and Etang d’Amunt del Vedo where we gained the ridge up to Pic de Ventolau. Clear skies and amazing views and hot. Taking the ridge west we took in Pic de Calberante and Pic de la Gallina before the Spanish Mont Roig and the French Mont Rouch where we found a tuna tacco shop (picnic) and a Spanish lass with a road atlas doing the HRP. She was very keen to get assistance to identify different peaks on the horizon. Then came the monster descent of 1800m back to the barn in sweltering heat.

The solar shower bag needed a significant amount of cold water adding before it was tolerable. Then the clouds descended and the drizzle started. Fortunately Breezy made an Aubergine Curry before we left so a quick supper, a film and bed; pleasantly fatigued.

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Tree Fellers

Most of our time recently has been dropping trees along the terraces beside the meadow. Partly to tidy up the bent and broken wood at the edge of the forest and partly to preserve the pasture. Anything hard wood worth seasoning as firewood is stacked and the rest is burnt. A long standing debate has been over the fir tree outside the outbuilding. It has been diseased for years but had purpose as we used to shower beneath it. Now we have a new barrel shower on the terrace it’s purposeless and still diseased. Decision was made to take it down and burn it, though a section of trunk is now waiting to become a planter.

Categories: Summer 2020, The Project

Destruction

Yesterday evening a storm came through.  Thunder lightening and hail.  Not just a little bit of hail but for an hour it chucked hail down the size of broad beans (not the same colour but it gives you an idea of the size).  The broad beans in the garden faired pretty well considering.  The courgette plants look like someone has fired a sawn-off shotgun at them.  There is more leaf debris on the ground than on the plants and what is left on the plants has been shredded.  The lettuce has been liquidised.  and the rhubarb has curled up and retreated into the ground leaving remnants of greenery above the soil.

Today we went shopping and had to buy salad which is the first time in weeks.

Categories: Summer 2020, The Project

Andorra

Having been monitoring the weather forecast for a couple of options for a cheeky getaway a window opened up to go to Andorra. Toys in the van and off we set for 4 nights camping in Canillo. Breezy found a lovely small campsite in the town centre within easy reach of supplies and restaurants.

On route we stopped in Ax-les-Thermes for a spot of climbing. Once we found the crag we could make no sense of the guidebook. We climbed, had our fill, and passed the actual crag on the way out. Next time we will know where to go.

First day in Canillo we tackled the Roc del Quer directisimo via ferrata. A short walk from the campsite to the start by the main road then an hour and twenty up to the viewing platform at the top. Nice mix of metal rungs and rock holds and some fairly steep sections. In the afternoon, climbing at Cascade D’Urina, a couple of km outside the town. This little crag with a waterfall tumbling in the middle did actually resemble the guide book.

Day two – Vall D’Incles – hitched up the road to the car park with an Andorran Mountain Guide who was super helpful on routes. Very pretty trail up to Refuge Juclar and up to Collada Juclar and into France. A traverse over to Etangs de Fontargenta, pop back over the border at Port de Fontargenta and back through irises to the car park where we got the solar powered bus back to the van.

Saturday – Via Ferrata Pic de Bony – Drove to Grau Roig and took a custom ascent route to get to the base of the via ferrata. Once again we had the place to ourselves, and again a good mix of metal and rock. An hour up for a picnic at the top then descent walk back to the van.

Sunday – Pic de Montmalus, Cretes des Pessons to Portella dels Pessons and return via the lakes. Beautiful route up to the Col on the ridge. Pretty near the top we could hear the screeching of brakes and saw what looked like three mountain bikers descending the very rocky trail towards us. When they got closer we realised they were actually on Enduro motorbikes. Good skills! The ridge was lovely with a steep climb up to Pic de Ribuls. Our chosen descent back down to the lakes was a scree and boulder filled gully and then a field of huge boulders with little marking a not very well used trail. Got back to the van by 3.15pm to start the drive back to the barn.
Fantastic few days away with little time to read a book but a complete recharge of the batteries. Brilliant!

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Flora Fauna Guests and other News

So, I have learnt to value flowers over the last couple of years. I can’t say that I have learnt the value of flowers as there is so much to learn. Most of our colour appears on plants that have either been given to us, been snaffled from other peoples gardens or we have grown from seed. There are a few exceptions which have been purchased like a couple of Agapanthus and Dianthus for example. Initially our plants came from Clive, our builder friend who was a great gardener and trained as a nurseryman (Day Lillys, Hollyhocks and Phlox). Breezy’s Father gave us all our roses which now flourish each summer. I won’t elaborate on the items snaffled but most were with the owners permission. From Ken’s in Derbyshire we gleaned a couple of Crocosmia Lucifer corms which we are hoping to see flower this year. From Keith in Chamonix cuttings of Forsythia, Dogwood, Bamboo and Willow. These are still tiny but with leaves and buds. Seed has either come from my Parents in Berkshire, been bought, or gathered from the wild or others gardens. Growing from seed definitely gives one huge respect for Nursery folk who may be bringing plants on for years before they look good enough to sell to people who want instant colour.
Then there is all the learning about what flowers when, what height and breadth each plant will attain so that you can get all year round colour and shape in an area. We have not even got to that stage as anything in our garden is plonked until it is moved. It’s fun to learn, just takes a long time and patience.
Yesterday we saw our second family of Great Tits fly the nest from the bird boxes. Each fledgling pokes it’s head out, tentatively. Then there is a couple of wobbles before they takes flight, beating their wings furiously and using far too much energy to stay in the air. I think I would do the same with just an initial briefing from the parents then venturing out of a small dark room into the wide world for the first time. Very soon they start to dip and dive in the air almost playing as their proficiency increases.
Other guests fall into one of two categories, welcome and unwelcome. Deer are welcome as long as they don’t eat from the veg and fruit garden. Though it must be like stumbling across a tuck shop with the door wide open and nobody in attendance. Unwelcome include voles, of which we seem to have an abundance. They burrow everywhere trashing the lawn (which not long ago was a field) and eat the roots of the plants. Having read that they hate daffodils, these have been planted at strategic points to deter them. They also don’t like coffee so we are scattering all the coffee grinds from the local Auberge around the garden. We have also invested in a solar sonar thing which buzzes every few seconds during the day. Then there is Chilli, Alison and Peters dog, which eats at least two each visit by digging up the garden. Chilli, though destructive, is in the welcome category.
Otherwise we have been using up some of our stash of bits of wood salvaged from different places to be more creative. Recycling materials into art of functional items. Food is also a keen interest for us both and so we have been trying out new recipes at least 4 times a week. Somehow this season we have got 5 courgette plants in the garden so I think we may be supplying the Auberge as well as ourselves.

Categories: Summer 2020, The Project

Pic de Montareing traverse to Cap de Rhuos

Breezy and I had already decided to go hiking when we got an email from Lee with an idea. This involved meeting at the mine above Salau at 9am the following day and following Lee. Not strictly fair, in that we did know where we were going. Montareing was on Lee’s short list of peaks he had not ascended so far and he had a cheeky little route to get to it which we had not done before. We climbed to Cabane Saube then took a little track off to the west to cross the ridge into the woods and up to a ruin of Cabane Fontaret. From there an indistinct path unmarked by cairns, signs, paint or even a path in places ascended accross the valley and up through some rock bands to a Col (we followed Lee who had used said path before). From there we climbed up to Pic de Montareing via a newly built shepherd’s cabane.

Lunch, then just over an hour to traverse the scrambly ridge over to Cap de Rhuos accompanied by lots of Alpine Accentors. The descent was via Col de Crusous and the steep path (well marked with paint, cairns, and a deep rut in the ground) back to the van at the mine.

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Pointe Hilette Arrete to Pointe Rabassere

After a few days of rain the weather broke and allowed an opportunity to get out in the hills. An early start at 8am to get to Guzet and the parking at Gerac with a picnic and after the usual mugs of coffee. It’s not our usual route to head down the ladders to the lakes so we missed it first off.
Once that issue was solved we followed the trail to Pointe Hilette and then just carried on up the arete to see how far we could get. Progress was slow as there was quite a bit of scrambling and difficult route finding in places with the odd breshe to cross. The latter part up to Rabassere was the easiest where we saw some other people for the first time since leaving the car park (strange that?).
From the peak we took the easiest way down to a Col above Etang Reglise where we picked up some cairns heading down to the lake. Nice option, we thought. All went smoothly until the cairns disappeared (in other words, we lost them) and the descent became slightly more precarious. Down climbing a waterfall at one point lead to a loose boulder field down to the Etang where we picked up the trail back to the car park. Another grand day out in the hills.

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Pica d’Estats

For a much needed change of scene we headed to Auzat (to the East) where we parked at Cascade de l’Artigue after a coffee in town. Donned the hiking boots and large packs with food and camping kit and set off up the hill towards Refuge Pinet. The ascent was via Etang Sourd where we ate lunch by the shepherd’s cabane. At the refuge we met up with the guardian who suggested that we use the winter room rather than camp. She had a couple of helpers and all three were scuttling about getting the place ready to open the next day. As we ate our supper storm clouds were brewing so we opted for the winter room which we shared with a Mario from Briancon.

Our intention was to climb Pica d’Estats then Montcalm and take a different descent but the advice from the guardian was not to risk it with the snow conditions. There were some snow covered slabs and ropes and harnesses were required. She did say that we could leave our camping stuff at the refuge the next day and pick it up on the way down.

Leaving the hut at 8am, 80% of the ascent was on snow with great weather and amazing views. We shared Pica d’Estats with Mario spotting different peaks in the distance, then headed across to Montcalm which was less impressive. A quicker descent and reached the refuge just as a storm hit with thunder, lightning and torrential rain. Nice walk down after the storm and lunch back to the van.
Camped in Vic Dessous for a couple of night to get in a Via Ferrata at Goulier and some rock climbing. Even managed a meal out together (felt like a date).

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Recent exploits

With little of note to write about here is a selection of pictures for you.

Local walks over old and new terrain included Pot de Salau with Sherie and Michiel, Cirque D’Anglade with Spike the dog and a couple of little explores. The first was up to the old ruins of a Chateau above Pont de la Taule and an adventure above Saube exploring the inside of a cloud.

The rest of the time we have been dodging rain, cutting back the forest, pottering with seedlings and filling holes in walls.

Categories: Summer 2020, The Project

Col de Pause to Cabane D’Aula

Breezy got the maps out again and selected a fantastic route which we had never taken from Col de la Pause. From the car park we took the 4×4 up to the first shepherd’s cabin and then a path off to the right towards a col and then down to Cabane D’Aula. Beautiful flowers on the way and a steep descent to the cabane. Then joined the GR10 to ascend back up to a col, at which point Breezy had spied a wee ridge with couple of small peaks which looked very doable.

Lunch spot was at the first small peak Pic de La Banque over looking Mt Valier and our route below. After a leisurely lunch we followed the ridge back to the first col of the morning and then a trundle back to Billy.

An amazing walk, made special with the abundance of amazing alpine flowers and having the place to ourselves.

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