Lane Formente to Pic Montaud

Blue skies and no clouds, Lee and Suzie arrived at 9.30 with a picnic (and a box of veg from their garden). We set off up the piste towards Port de Salau. Just before Pouille, the shepherds cabin we took the path to the right following the old pylon line for the logging cable way. After a few hundred meters this fizzled out and the rest of the ascent up to Lane Fourmente was a case of following the line of least resistance.

It was hot and going was slow so a bite of foods was required at the ridge. Re-nourished we set off towards Pic Montaud along the crest of the ridge. Amazing views of Mont Rouche to the left and Mont Vallier to the right and a stunning ridge line. We go buzzed by a cross-country paraglider souring the ridge above us before heading off to Mont Rouche.

From Pic Montaud we took the ridge towards Port de Salau and dropped onto the French side above the top shepherd’s cabin to join the main path back down to the barn for cold beer.

A slightly longer drive than expected due to a head on collision between a motorcycle and a car got us to La Ralliere where we abandoned the van by the side of the road. Traffic was slow and being turned back there as the parking at Pont D’Espagne was “saturated”. Strange expression for a car park but that is what we were told.

From there we took the Sentier des Cascades up the valley with hundreds of other people, most of whom were scantily dressed and very bumbly. Well worth the walk though as the waterfalls are amazing. A picnic by Refuge des Clots and the crowds disappeared, then followed the river left towards Refuge Wallon.

The Refuge was closed due to renovations (and massive extension) so there were tents spread all over the meadow. We found a spot sheltered from the wind by the stream and pitched our little tent. After a dehydrated meal we hit the sack as the wind made a game of cards in the open air rather tricky.

An 8am start and uphill mode to Col de la Fache where we dumped the big sacks and gained the Grande Fache via the North ridge unburdened. Again very windy but not cold and beautiful views of Vignemale, Los Infiernos, Blatious and the Pic Midi D’Ossau from the summit at 3005m. Back to the Col to pick up the sacks and have a cup of tea before taking the path (more like boulder hopping searching for cairns amongst piles of rock) on the Spanish side under Pene D’Arragon to gain Col D’Arragon and more scrambling up the ridge to Pic de Cambales. Strangely enough we had the summit to ourselves and saw nobody on the way up or down. More fantastic views and a snack before finding our way off down the North ridge to Col de Cambales. This was more tricky, scrambling down with big packs, though fairly well marked with cairns. Some very “airy” and exposed sections and definitely not for the feint hearted.

Once at the Col we joined the well worn path through the lakes towards Refuge Wallon and found a secluded camp spot by Lac de Cambales at about 5pm. Again, no cards, dehydrated meal and bed.

Day 3 and an hour downhill to gain the path up to Lac Nere and on to Lac du Portet where we started seeing other hikers. Then a long descent via more lakes down to Refuge du Clots and lunch by the river. Back to Pont D’Espagne where we waited for the Navette (bus) to take us back to La Ralliere.

All in all a grand excursion to re-charge the batteries.

The forecast was for 34 degrees and we woke to rain on the skylights. After a swift breakfast we set off from the barn towards Mont Rouch with big packs. Passed the cabane Clos de Dessus and up to the frontier at 2677m, to the east of Mont Rouch where we gained the trail down into Spain and the Refugi Mont Roig. From there we climbed the ladder of lakes to find a camp spot at Etang de Sens where we stripped off for a quick dip to cool down and a cup of tea. My parents may even recognise the mugs as they were bought for our VW camper when I was a teenager. After a couple of hands of cards and a supper of spicy chorizzo and lentils with couscous we retired to the tent for the night.

Up with the alarm to a completely dry tent and an ascent in the shade up to the col between Etang Major and Etang d’Amunt del Vedo where we gained the ridge up to Pic de Ventolau. Clear skies and amazing views and hot. Taking the ridge west we took in Pic de Calberante and Pic de la Gallina before the Spanish Mont Roig and the French Mont Rouch where we found a tuna tacco shop (picnic) and a Spanish lass with a road atlas doing the HRP. She was very keen to get assistance to identify different peaks on the horizon. Then came the monster descent of 1800m back to the barn in sweltering heat.

The solar shower bag needed a significant amount of cold water adding before it was tolerable. Then the clouds descended and the drizzle started. Fortunately Breezy made an Aubergine Curry before we left so a quick supper, a film and bed; pleasantly fatigued.

Breezy and I had already decided to go hiking when we got an email from Lee with an idea. This involved meeting at the mine above Salau at 9am the following day and following Lee. Not strictly fair, in that we did know where we were going. Montareing was on Lee’s short list of peaks he had not ascended so far and he had a cheeky little route to get to it which we had not done before. We climbed to Cabane Saube then took a little track off to the west to cross the ridge into the woods and up to a ruin of Cabane Fontaret. From there an indistinct path unmarked by cairns, signs, paint or even a path in places ascended accross the valley and up through some rock bands to a Col (we followed Lee who had used said path before). From there we climbed up to Pic de Montareing via a newly built shepherd’s cabane.

Lunch, then just over an hour to traverse the scrambly ridge over to Cap de Rhuos accompanied by lots of Alpine Accentors. The descent was via Col de Crusous and the steep path (well marked with paint, cairns, and a deep rut in the ground) back to the van at the mine.

After a few days of rain the weather broke and allowed an opportunity to get out in the hills. An early start at 8am to get to Guzet and the parking at Gerac with a picnic and after the usual mugs of coffee. It’s not our usual route to head down the ladders to the lakes so we missed it first off.
Once that issue was solved we followed the trail to Pointe Hilette and then just carried on up the arete to see how far we could get. Progress was slow as there was quite a bit of scrambling and difficult route finding in places with the odd breshe to cross. The latter part up to Rabassere was the easiest where we saw some other people for the first time since leaving the car park (strange that?).
From the peak we took the easiest way down to a Col above Etang Reglise where we picked up some cairns heading down to the lake. Nice option, we thought. All went smoothly until the cairns disappeared (in other words, we lost them) and the descent became slightly more precarious. Down climbing a waterfall at one point lead to a loose boulder field down to the Etang where we picked up the trail back to the car park. Another grand day out in the hills.

For a much needed change of scene we headed to Auzat (to the East) where we parked at Cascade de l’Artigue after a coffee in town. Donned the hiking boots and large packs with food and camping kit and set off up the hill towards Refuge Pinet. The ascent was via Etang Sourd where we ate lunch by the shepherd’s cabane. At the refuge we met up with the guardian who suggested that we use the winter room rather than camp. She had a couple of helpers and all three were scuttling about getting the place ready to open the next day. As we ate our supper storm clouds were brewing so we opted for the winter room which we shared with a Mario from Briancon.

Our intention was to climb Pica d’Estats then Montcalm and take a different descent but the advice from the guardian was not to risk it with the snow conditions. There were some snow covered slabs and ropes and harnesses were required. She did say that we could leave our camping stuff at the refuge the next day and pick it up on the way down.

Leaving the hut at 8am, 80% of the ascent was on snow with great weather and amazing views. We shared Pica d’Estats with Mario spotting different peaks in the distance, then headed across to Montcalm which was less impressive. A quicker descent and reached the refuge just as a storm hit with thunder, lightning and torrential rain. Nice walk down after the storm and lunch back to the van.
Camped in Vic Dessous for a couple of night to get in a Via Ferrata at Goulier and some rock climbing. Even managed a meal out together (felt like a date).