Tag: Hiking

Balaitous Plan B

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Day 1.

Every year we try and get away to explore a different part of The Pyrenees. This usually involves a 2-3 hour drive so we try and stay away for 3 or 4 nights, either in refuges or with the tent. Opting for lighter bags at the moment we booked into 2 different refuges for 3 nights with the aim to climb Balaitous on the last day.

Looking ahead at the forecast, it all looked settled and great for our 4 days away but as we all know mountain weather is very changeable!

We left the barn early to get to the start at Lac du Tech at a reasonable time. A 2.5 hour drive got us to the lake where the sun was a shining.

Made for a hot start to the day as it was an unrelenting steep climb for nearly 3 hours up to Lac de Pouey Lauri. The path was above the lake so dropping down to it for a dip did not seem so appealing!!! We sat looking down on the lake and listening to loads of marmots but seeing none and had a few snacks before climbing on up to Col de Hospitalet a much more friendly ascent on a good and less steep path for a great spot for lunch. Hardly anybody about so we had a good rest, taking in the views and piecing together the mountains around us with the map before heading down to the Refuge Miguelon our bed for the night. Great views on the way down of the unusual dam.

Sun was still out when we arrived so I had a quick dip in the lake whilst Al sat in the deck chairs!

The storm clouds started brewing and it was not long before we were inside playing cards before dinner.

Was not too impressed with dinner, watery lentil soup, followed by lentils and rice for the main, quite unusual not to have meat in a French refuge! At least there was some good cheese and a choccy dessert!

Had a good chat with the gaurdian re our plan A for the next day to head over the Col de Lie, they strongly advised not to go this way with the meteo as route finding, slippery rock slabs and steepness they thought would be quite dangerous, we thought we’d sleep on it and reassess in the morning.

We were in the winter overflow dorm which was great as only a few others in there so a reasonable kip with the thunder and lightening going on a lot of the night.

Day 2.

After brekky the sky appeared to be breaking up but with storm clouds all about we took the guardians advice and decided to head back down to the main parking area and head back up to the next refuge Larribet rather than risking the col which apparently is a 9 or 10 hour day.

A good 2 hour hike down on a good path before we trundled up the very picturesque valley to the refuge.

A much easier day and a much easier climb but overall a much prettier day following the river, gorgeous cascades, lakes, old berger’s “toues” which are shelters beautifully designed and named after the bergers themselves. Lots of beautiful very clear swimming holes up the valley en route to the refuge. An easy 2.5 hours steady climb up.

We had a late lunch at the refuge with cups of tea before lightening the packs and heading up to the lakes above the refuge about a 45 minute walk away. Nobody at all up there so decided to have a swim, even Al came in! Better than refuge showers normally! Sat in the sun and watched the storm clouds beginning to pour over from Spain so we legged it back to the refuge and got in just before the storm started!

A cracking refuge run by 4 ladies, small dorms, clean, great buzz, tasty food and nice wine!

Meteo for the night and tomorrow was due to get worse and worse! Our attempt to go up Balaitous tomorrow felt like it was a no goer. Torrential rain and strong winds over night.

Day 3.

We decided to cancel our reservation for the second night at the refuge as the rain although had eased off and was dry when we left the refuge it was due to get considerably worse. So we sadly returned the same path back to the park entrance and then had a 5 km hike down the road back to the van. Hitched back to the van, the lift was hugely appreciated as we were fairly wet by then! It was a pretty hike back down the same valley, the path flooded after all the overnight rain and the waterfalls and river were loud and full looked spectacular. Even saw a Salamander on the way down, a first for me. No photos taken due to dampness.

It was then back to the barn, luckily with a full dry set of clothes in the van waiting for us!

A fun explore, a shame not to do Plan A but Plan B worked out pretty well too!

Categories: Summer 2024 Tags: Tags:

Cool reflections

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Mountain view

Cirque de Cagataille is a fantastic loop walk from the parking at the end of the road beyond Moussures. We set off early to avoid the crowds and started walking before 8am. The trail follows the river up passed the cascade and steeply up to the granite slabs above before you reach Etang de la Hillette. We were lucky on the ascent to see an Izard with a very young baby. Just a bundle of fur scampering over the boulders.

We continued on to Etang Alet where we grabbed a picnic lunch and Breezy took a dip to cool off. Then down into the forest and back to the van. We only saw 5 other folk and they had camped up high.

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Hot hiking

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Horses

Forecast was looking good even if a tad hot! So we decided to head off to the hills for a 2 day hike. Both were long days, made longer by the heat! The plan was to make our way back to the barn from Col de la Core.

We headed off with our great friend Lee, his wife Susie kindly dropped us at Col de la Core making pick up logistics a lot easier. Thanks masses Susie.

We went for an early start which meant at least we could get some of the ascent done before we started to melt. That was the plan but we melted pretty quickly.

We took the Chemin de Libertee via Col de Craberous which is a good steep climb up to the col where we had snacks. A good 4 hour yomp to get here. The steep path down the other side was not as skiddy as we had expected and it was only an hour down to Lake Milouga for lunch and a swim for Breezy, which was much needed.

We then had a relatively steep, short climb and then easier ground up to Col de Pecouch looking down to Refuge Estagnous where it was a short descent down to the refuge. A great refuge, fantastic views, delicious mountain food and cold beers and wine so all was good. We all guzzled loads of cold water on arrival in an attempt to rehydrate before attacking the beer!

The meteo suggested a storm may come in late afternoon on day 2 and that along with the heat we were keen for an early start and were off by 7.15am after brekky. Up in the shade to Petit Mt Valier and then across the ridge to the col before descending on to the Spanish side. We took in a new little peak Les Montagnoles and a wee scramble across to Col della Tindarella. Lots of Issard in this area which is always great to see. It was then a vague path across to Port D’Aula before we began the final ridge up and down across to Port de Salau which is the main col up beyond the barn. We were so lucky today as although it was hot there was a little wind which made hiking less sweaty!

We had a late lunch at the final peak de Pic de Montaud where Spain was in the sun and France in the cloud. Fab views of the route we had taken. Into the cloud which was welcome! and back to the barn to meet up with Susie wine and beer. We were all pretty tired.

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Pic des Trois Seigneurs

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Shepherd's cabin

One of our favourite hikes. Started from the bend in the road where the path from Etang D’Aube comes out. After years of starting at the Port de Lers we have taken to parking at the end of the track and walking back up to the Col to start rather than having to walk back up to the Col at the end of the hike.

Taking the path north to Pic de Fontanette and Pic de Barres you very quickly gain height and follow the ridge on to Trois Seigneurs. This time we continued the ridge on to Pic de Peyroutet which we have not done before. After a snack and a look over to Etang Bleu we descended towards Etang D’Aube to the north of Les Pujols to follow a spring down to the outflow of the lake. Most of this was off piste except for a vague track beside the brook descending the hill.

Lunch and a dip in the lake before the very hot descent to the van.

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Pic de Cabanatous

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The barn was still inside a cloud when we left to meet up with Lee and Suzie in Oust. Sherrie and Jenny also joined for a short hike up and over Pic de Cabanatous. Parked at Coumebiere where the GR10 crosses the road and walked up through the old silver mines to Col de las Fouzes. Amazing cloud scenes and a fog bow on the way up. Left at the col to the summit for lunch and then down to Etang d’Alate for a dip. An Ibex watched us from the ridge above the lake for over 40 minutes before getting bored and wandering off. The GR10 the took us back to the cars. There was a massive patch of cocolate orchids on the way down which was lovely.

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Pic de Seron

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One of our favourite walks from the end of the track from Guzet Neige. Starting at about 1800m is great for a hot day. As per usual we went clockwise to Etang D’Alet and then follow the red markers up to the summit. We even found some snow patches on the route up. Descent is the same way for 100m and then over the ridge ad down behind the Cabane Turgilla and down past the lakes. Swim is an option to cool down.

Some amazing flowers and scenery. Leopards bane, alpine avens and rampions to name but three.

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The mouse challenge

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Gentiene

Before heading to Sicilly for a relaxing holiday we spent a few days at the barn to unload the van and plant the garden up. This year is one of those when the mouse population soars, then they get some disease, then the population decreases again. This is, apparently normal every 5-7 years.

As per normal, we had slightly overloaded our van leaving Chamonix so had arranged to borrow the van from the Auberge in the village to decant loads into to ferry our stuff up the piste. This is where we got the mouse news. Not only have the guys at the Auberge got holes in all their clothing, they told us that all the cats in the village are fat and bored. Bored of the same diet and also playing tennis with mice.

We were lucky. Yes there was some mouse activity inside the barn but we caught two and dispatched them both. We cleaned everything and sought their entry point. A hole was found in the floorboards upstairs and duly plugged. Bingo. We got off very lightly.

Off to Sicilly with a van full of toys.

On our return we found more activity indoors. All activity had ceased on our arrival but there were several dead critters to clear up. It would appear we trapped some inside the barn, maybe in an undiscovered nest. A second round of cleansing the barn and searching for a nest. The critters had raided the first aid store in the bathroom and made a lovely nest from bandages and dressings. Since then all quiet on the mouse front. Boom.

Since then we have been cutting grass, weeding and walking our local walks from the door.

Categories: Summer 2024 Tags: Tags: ,

Pic de Montareing Montagnoule and Cap de Rhuos

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The scramble ridge

A windy day with blue skies. We started from the mine above Salau in the shade and only got to sunshine when we reached the Pis Noir after 2 hours in the cool. Ascended to Tuc du Pis Noir with great views of Mont Rouch to the west. Picked our way up to the French Spanish border and turned left (east) towards Cap de Rhuos. Windy on the ridge and lovely scrambling with minimal loose rock. Did not see a soul all day. Animal count included: stripy cows, sheep, an izard, an audience of vultures, and various other birds. We heard a marmot but didn’t see it. Grand day out and right on the doorstep.

1800m of up and 12km in 7hrs.

Categories: Summer 2023, The Project Tags: Tags:

Last visitors of the summer

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Mont Vallier

Carolyn and Dawn met at the chalet in Chamonix in the winter and have become firm friends. They flew out to Carcasonne and then drove over to the barn. Keen walkers we had a list of possible itineraries depending on the weather and fitness levels. An interest was expressed in hiking in to Spain for a night so a menu plan was also kind of flexible.

Paella on the first night of arrival has become a bit of a signature for a first stay at the barn. This one got cooked indoors as the wind was too strong and kept blowing out the gas.

Day one we went over to Pic des Trois Seigneurs with an early start to beat the heat. One of our favourite walks although it is just over an hours drive away. It has a bit of everything with a reasonably high start point at Port de Lers, steep up the ridge, then a fantastic ridge walk with amazing views all the way to the summit of Trois Seigneurs. The descent takes in the Etang d’Arbu for a swim then a hot walk down to a bend in the road below the parking at Port de Lers. We actually parked at the bend and walked up to the start to avoid walking the road in the heat of the day at the end. The van said the temperature was 39 degrees when we finished.

Forecast for the next couple of days was marginal but we committed to walking from the barn over Port de Salau and down to the Refuge Fornet in Spain. Stay the night there and then return via the Port d’Aula. We had done a car drop on the road to Col de la Pause the day before to make the return easier. A Dutch friend Miriam joined us which was great.

We started in cloud and much cooler temperatures, only reaching sunshine when we reached Cabane des Lannes. What fantastic views of the mountains peaking through a sea of cloud. We dried out in the last 240m to the Col.

The descent path down to Refuge Fornet was much better marked than last time we did it and Spain was completely clear of cloud.

A couple of beers on the terrace, a couple of games of dice and a lovely meal before bed and an early start the next day. Unfortunately it started to spit with rain just as we set off. Waterproofs came off once we reached the grass roofed cabane above Borda de Perosa. Not so well marked route took us up to Port d’Aula in very light drizzle. Wind at the frontier pushed us down the hill to Etang d’Areau, just above the cloud level, where we had a buffet lunch from the contents of everyone’s rucksacks. The descent through the cloud on the GR10 to the car was eased with a word game of professions starting with the letter H.

Beers at the Auberge in Salau before outdoor showers at the barn and chilli con carne with cauliflower rice.

The last day of their stay was very wet. The fire was lit and games were played. A nice finale and a chance to recover. Thank you.

Categories: Summer 2023, The Project Tags: Tags:

Col de la Core, Estagnous, Valier and Chemin de Libertee

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Early morning on Valier

A gorgeous day without a cloud in the sky. Parked at Col de la Core and set off on the GR10 to Etang Ayes. Broke off from the GR and headed over to Etang Milouga where we stopped for lunch. A 1hr climb up to Col de Pouech overlooking Refuge Estagnous, our destination for the night. 15Km, 7.15hrs walking and 1800m ascent.

Highlights were the variety of cabins seen on route in the mountains. We also saw a huge flock of big birds over Bouirex on the other side of Col de la Core when we were near Ayes. There must have been about 100 of them. They then flew across and over us. We think they were black kites. Lastly, we picked up some delightful company for half the day. We saw her setting off with someone from the Col where we parked, then we picked her up where we left the GR10. A lovely brown dog (we called Flo), with no name tag. She lead the way to the refuge then found some new friends with a tent she could stay in.

Day two was a long day. Alarm at 0630hrs and away by 0715hrs. Up Valier where we had the summit to ourselves for half an hour before heading down. Retraced our steps back to Milouga and then up to Cabane d’Espugues and steeply up to Col de Craberous. Mackerel tacos for lunch then we descended the Chemin de Libertee back to Col de la Core. 21Km, 9.25hrs and 1600m ascent.

If you do the Chemin de Libertee backwards, is it the Chemin de Captivite?

Categories: Summer 2023, The Project Tags: Tags: