Balaitous Plan B

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Day 1.

Every year we try and get away to explore a different part of The Pyrenees. This usually involves a 2-3 hour drive so we try and stay away for 3 or 4 nights, either in refuges or with the tent. Opting for lighter bags at the moment we booked into 2 different refuges for 3 nights with the aim to climb Balaitous on the last day.

Looking ahead at the forecast, it all looked settled and great for our 4 days away but as we all know mountain weather is very changeable!

We left the barn early to get to the start at Lac du Tech at a reasonable time. A 2.5 hour drive got us to the lake where the sun was a shining.

Made for a hot start to the day as it was an unrelenting steep climb for nearly 3 hours up to Lac de Pouey Lauri. The path was above the lake so dropping down to it for a dip did not seem so appealing!!! We sat looking down on the lake and listening to loads of marmots but seeing none and had a few snacks before climbing on up to Col de Hospitalet a much more friendly ascent on a good and less steep path for a great spot for lunch. Hardly anybody about so we had a good rest, taking in the views and piecing together the mountains around us with the map before heading down to the Refuge Miguelon our bed for the night. Great views on the way down of the unusual dam.

Sun was still out when we arrived so I had a quick dip in the lake whilst Al sat in the deck chairs!

The storm clouds started brewing and it was not long before we were inside playing cards before dinner.

Was not too impressed with dinner, watery lentil soup, followed by lentils and rice for the main, quite unusual not to have meat in a French refuge! At least there was some good cheese and a choccy dessert!

Had a good chat with the gaurdian re our plan A for the next day to head over the Col de Lie, they strongly advised not to go this way with the meteo as route finding, slippery rock slabs and steepness they thought would be quite dangerous, we thought we’d sleep on it and reassess in the morning.

We were in the winter overflow dorm which was great as only a few others in there so a reasonable kip with the thunder and lightening going on a lot of the night.

Day 2.

After brekky the sky appeared to be breaking up but with storm clouds all about we took the guardians advice and decided to head back down to the main parking area and head back up to the next refuge Larribet rather than risking the col which apparently is a 9 or 10 hour day.

A good 2 hour hike down on a good path before we trundled up the very picturesque valley to the refuge.

A much easier day and a much easier climb but overall a much prettier day following the river, gorgeous cascades, lakes, old berger’s “toues” which are shelters beautifully designed and named after the bergers themselves. Lots of beautiful very clear swimming holes up the valley en route to the refuge. An easy 2.5 hours steady climb up.

We had a late lunch at the refuge with cups of tea before lightening the packs and heading up to the lakes above the refuge about a 45 minute walk away. Nobody at all up there so decided to have a swim, even Al came in! Better than refuge showers normally! Sat in the sun and watched the storm clouds beginning to pour over from Spain so we legged it back to the refuge and got in just before the storm started!

A cracking refuge run by 4 ladies, small dorms, clean, great buzz, tasty food and nice wine!

Meteo for the night and tomorrow was due to get worse and worse! Our attempt to go up Balaitous tomorrow felt like it was a no goer. Torrential rain and strong winds over night.

Day 3.

We decided to cancel our reservation for the second night at the refuge as the rain although had eased off and was dry when we left the refuge it was due to get considerably worse. So we sadly returned the same path back to the park entrance and then had a 5 km hike down the road back to the van. Hitched back to the van, the lift was hugely appreciated as we were fairly wet by then! It was a pretty hike back down the same valley, the path flooded after all the overnight rain and the waterfalls and river were loud and full looked spectacular. Even saw a Salamander on the way down, a first for me. No photos taken due to dampness.

It was then back to the barn, luckily with a full dry set of clothes in the van waiting for us!

A fun explore, a shame not to do Plan A but Plan B worked out pretty well too!

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