With only three days before we had to leave to travel North we had a weather window. That is, we had a “good” weather window, and in the spirit of adventure we packed rucksacks and headed to Spain. From the door we went over Port de Salau and down to the Fornet Refuge for the first night. From there we trundled down the track to Alos D’Isil before heading up towards Refuge D’Airoto to camp. Then a 12 hour day to get back to the barn via: Col D’Airoto,Tuc de Bonabe, Oic de Moredo, down the valley Cireves and back over the Port de Salau.

We currently have a problem with our camera. It will take snap shots without the zoom, and it will take macro shots. Touch the zoom and take a shot and it comes out white. Hence all photos are broad scenes of mountains or close up shots of flowers. As we were walking in mountains and there were loads of flowers this was not too much of an issue. We have been on the internet and ordered another camera of the same make and model. There is something to be said (something good) about having a gadget you are familiar with and that you like; besides, we have spare batteries for it and a case which fits.

Refuge Fornet is super nice. From Port de Salau it is less than an hour and a half descent and the food is great. Staff are friendly and they have showers. Refuge D’Airoto is a shelter with basic equipment and no showers, let alone a toilet. It would be fine if you had it to yourselves but as it is on a first come first served basis there is no guarantee there will be nobody there or indeed space to sleep. On this occasion we took a tent which was fortunate as the refuge was full of people on the HRP and a group of Spanish who just wanted a party. Our camp spot was idyllic between the two lakes. Food, courtesy of Vesty, was good and we slept very well.

The last day, was a little over ambitious. It was not the distance of the height gain/loss that was the main issue but rather the terrain and disappearing footpaths. Our 1:50,000 map had paths marked on and our 1:25,000 had the detail. Following cairns across rough scree slopes and then 2 km of boulder fields did slow us down. There were however plenty of mountains and flowers, and we got back to the barn an hour before an almighty electrical storm.

Lane Formente to Pic Montaud

Blue skies and no clouds, Lee and Suzie arrived at 9.30 with a picnic (and a box of veg from their garden). We set off up the piste towards Port de Salau. Just before Pouille, the shepherds cabin we took the path to the right following the old pylon line for the logging cable way. After a few hundred meters this fizzled out and the rest of the ascent up to Lane Fourmente was a case of following the line of least resistance.

It was hot and going was slow so a bite of foods was required at the ridge. Re-nourished we set off towards Pic Montaud along the crest of the ridge. Amazing views of Mont Rouche to the left and Mont Vallier to the right and a stunning ridge line. We go buzzed by a cross-country paraglider souring the ridge above us before heading off to Mont Rouche.

From Pic Montaud we took the ridge towards Port de Salau and dropped onto the French side above the top shepherd’s cabin to join the main path back down to the barn for cold beer.

A slightly longer drive than expected due to a head on collision between a motorcycle and a car got us to La Ralliere where we abandoned the van by the side of the road. Traffic was slow and being turned back there as the parking at Pont D’Espagne was “saturated”. Strange expression for a car park but that is what we were told.

From there we took the Sentier des Cascades up the valley with hundreds of other people, most of whom were scantily dressed and very bumbly. Well worth the walk though as the waterfalls are amazing. A picnic by Refuge des Clots and the crowds disappeared, then followed the river left towards Refuge Wallon.

The Refuge was closed due to renovations (and massive extension) so there were tents spread all over the meadow. We found a spot sheltered from the wind by the stream and pitched our little tent. After a dehydrated meal we hit the sack as the wind made a game of cards in the open air rather tricky.

An 8am start and uphill mode to Col de la Fache where we dumped the big sacks and gained the Grande Fache via the North ridge unburdened. Again very windy but not cold and beautiful views of Vignemale, Los Infiernos, Blatious and the Pic Midi D’Ossau from the summit at 3005m. Back to the Col to pick up the sacks and have a cup of tea before taking the path (more like boulder hopping searching for cairns amongst piles of rock) on the Spanish side under Pene D’Arragon to gain Col D’Arragon and more scrambling up the ridge to Pic de Cambales. Strangely enough we had the summit to ourselves and saw nobody on the way up or down. More fantastic views and a snack before finding our way off down the North ridge to Col de Cambales. This was more tricky, scrambling down with big packs, though fairly well marked with cairns. Some very “airy” and exposed sections and definitely not for the feint hearted.

Once at the Col we joined the well worn path through the lakes towards Refuge Wallon and found a secluded camp spot by Lac de Cambales at about 5pm. Again, no cards, dehydrated meal and bed.

Day 3 and an hour downhill to gain the path up to Lac Nere and on to Lac du Portet where we started seeing other hikers. Then a long descent via more lakes down to Refuge du Clots and lunch by the river. Back to Pont D’Espagne where we waited for the Navette (bus) to take us back to La Ralliere.

All in all a grand excursion to re-charge the batteries.

The forecast was for 34 degrees and we woke to rain on the skylights. After a swift breakfast we set off from the barn towards Mont Rouch with big packs. Passed the cabane Clos de Dessus and up to the frontier at 2677m, to the east of Mont Rouch where we gained the trail down into Spain and the Refugi Mont Roig. From there we climbed the ladder of lakes to find a camp spot at Etang de Sens where we stripped off for a quick dip to cool down and a cup of tea. My parents may even recognise the mugs as they were bought for our VW camper when I was a teenager. After a couple of hands of cards and a supper of spicy chorizzo and lentils with couscous we retired to the tent for the night.

Up with the alarm to a completely dry tent and an ascent in the shade up to the col between Etang Major and Etang d’Amunt del Vedo where we gained the ridge up to Pic de Ventolau. Clear skies and amazing views and hot. Taking the ridge west we took in Pic de Calberante and Pic de la Gallina before the Spanish Mont Roig and the French Mont Rouch where we found a tuna tacco shop (picnic) and a Spanish lass with a road atlas doing the HRP. She was very keen to get assistance to identify different peaks on the horizon. Then came the monster descent of 1800m back to the barn in sweltering heat.

The solar shower bag needed a significant amount of cold water adding before it was tolerable. Then the clouds descended and the drizzle started. Fortunately Breezy made an Aubergine Curry before we left so a quick supper, a film and bed; pleasantly fatigued.