Another hot day dictated another early start to beat the heat. Breakfast at Coumebiere before heading off via Col de la Fouzes. At the Col we turned right to take the ridge in the sunshine to Pique Rouge Bassie. There was a welcome slight breezy on the ridge, and on the lee side there was a huge flock of crag martins. We watched these beautiful birds playing in the wind for a while.
A cup of hot cassis and ginger (our preferred thermos filling) and a handful of peanuts at the summit before descending passed the lakes towards Refuge Bassie. We stopped at the the lower lake of Etang des Lavants for Breezy to take a plunge. From the Hut, uphill again, to Port de Bassie and Port Saleix then back to the van on the GR10.
Big loop of 1700m and 19km with great views and hardly anyone there.
The weather forecast said it was to be 35 degrees so an early start was called for. Alarm set and no coffee in bed. Breakfast made up in ice cream containers and we were off.
Got to the parking, breakfast and away for just gone 8am. Most of the way up to Etang Hillette was in the shade which was bliss. There were a couple of people there but it was super quiet. An easy hour of boulder hopping to get to Etang Alet where Breezy took a dip. Lunch and then took the track via Cabane Lacarde and the descent back to the van. We couldn’t find the Cabane where it was marked on the map. There was a shelter built under a rock above the tarn but our notes from the last time we went was that it was quite comfy and well equipped.
A much needed day in the hills. Nice and peaceful though the parking was completely chock a block when we got back to the van.
There is something really nice about being able to walk from the door of the barn into Spain. Less than two and a half hours and 1000m of ascent carrying a sandwich and a salad for Breezy and you’re there. Generally it’s not the most interesting walk but this time of year the flowers are amazing. Also the birdlife, though never the easiest things to catch on camera.
We were lucky enough on the way back down to sit and watch a couple of goldfinches feasting on a thistle.
We also took a detour to go and look for the Eglise St Jean. This sign has been on the path for all the years we have lived here. We have never before even been curious enough to explore. This time we did. We found a pile of rocks with another sign explaining what the rocks were and a magnificent view of cascade Bege. In fact the site is a mere 10m from the path, and very interesting. From there we took the higher path round the back of our barn towards the village as a more interesting way home than the 4×4 piste.
Met Sheri, Michiel, Lee and Suzie at the Col to head up to the Pic des 3 seigneurs. A couple of hours to the top where we had lunch before heading down to the south on a cairn marked path which took us straight down to the lake. Some people took a dip. Nice new variation for the descent. Managed to get back to the van just in time before the rain started.
It is a great hike for a short day as only 750m of up and 9km.
An early start to meet Lee and Suzie and share travel to Frechendech. Not too hot a day made for perfect hiking weather. We set off up the river valley, slowly ascending to the dam below the Refuge D’Araing. A quick scooby snack and a coffe at the refuge and on up to Tuc de Bouc. Great views. Frome there we dropped down to join the GR10 and descended via the Chapelle D’Isard and back to the van.
We collected Michiel from his place in pea soup cloud and parked at Col de la Core still in the clag. Headed off on the Chemin de Libertee through the woods towards Cabane de Luzars. Once out of the woods we appeared above the surging sea of cloud. It seemed like waves crashing against the mountain and flowing over the ridges. Completely amazing and lost in photos, we could have watched it for hours.
From Cabane de Subera we headed up past the Halifax crash site and on to Col de Craberous at 2382m where we sheltered from the wind and took lunch.
We traversed the ridge to Tuc de la Messe and descended to a low Col to enter the Eychelle Valley. A dip in Etang Eychelle on the way back to Col de la Core.
A lucky call with the weather for an 18km loop above the clouds.
We have been holding off from heading away for a couple of nights waiting for a weather window. One finally arrived so we licked up the rucksacs and drove to Col de Pause. The plan was to head into Spain via Port D’Aula and traverse to Etang Long near Mont Valier to camp. From there, after an early start, we could gain the frontier ridge by the Pic de Trois Compte. Nip up there. Then follow the ridge to Barlongere. Head down to Trauc de Lesc and then descend the Spanish side to stay in the refuge Montgarri.
All went smoothly on day one and we got a prime camping spot by Etang Long where the water flows out to head down to Etang Rond. We did get to see one Isard and a couple of Marmots en route. Day two went well all the way to Barlongere. We met nobody and had amazing views into France and Spain. The tricky bit came getting down to Trauc de Lesc from Barlongere. When the ridge became knife edged and I was crying for the lack of a rope and harness, we bailed onto scree covered slabs of friable rock to descend steeply onto Spain above cliff bands. On reflection this was the limit of acceptable challenge and was far removed from any comfort zone we previously enjoyed. We were rewarded by a herd of 40 Isard near th Col of Trauc de Lesc. Strangely there was no path to follow down the valley to the refuge so we just made our way down.
The refuge was seeing off the last of the lunchtime guests when we arrived. What a great place. Friendly, good food, funky rooms and a brilliant breakfast with garlic and tomatoes. We spoke to the guardian before we left who was alarmed to hear that we went down to Trauc de Lesc. He said that it was famous for the military during the Civil War shooting all the escapees who left Spain via Port D’Orla.
Day three started with a hike along the 4×4 track to Borda Pedrosa where we headed back up to Port D’Aula and down into cloud filled France. The cloud reached to within 300m of the Col and stretched as far as the eye could see. We found the van in the cloud and headed back to the barn. Job done.
With only three days before we had to leave to travel North we had a weather window. That is, we had a “good†weather window, and in the spirit of adventure we packed rucksacks and headed to Spain. From the door we went over Port de Salau and down to the Fornet Refuge for the first night. From there we trundled down the track to Alos D’Isil before heading up towards Refuge D’Airoto to camp. Then a 12 hour day to get back to the barn via: Col D’Airoto,Tuc de Bonabe, Oic de Moredo, down the valley Cireves and back over the Port de Salau.
We currently have a problem with our camera. It will take snap shots without the zoom, and it will take macro shots. Touch the zoom and take a shot and it comes out white. Hence all photos are broad scenes of mountains or close up shots of flowers. As we were walking in mountains and there were loads of flowers this was not too much of an issue. We have been on the internet and ordered another camera of the same make and model. There is something to be said (something good) about having a gadget you are familiar with and that you like; besides, we have spare batteries for it and a case which fits.
Refuge Fornet is super nice. From Port de Salau it is less than an hour and a half descent and the food is great. Staff are friendly and they have showers. Refuge D’Airoto is a shelter with basic equipment and no showers, let alone a toilet. It would be fine if you had it to yourselves but as it is on a first come first served basis there is no guarantee there will be nobody there or indeed space to sleep. On this occasion we took a tent which was fortunate as the refuge was full of people on the HRP and a group of Spanish who just wanted a party. Our camp spot was idyllic between the two lakes. Food, courtesy of Vesty, was good and we slept very well.
The last day, was a little over ambitious. It was not the distance of the height gain/loss that was the main issue but rather the terrain and disappearing footpaths. Our 1:50,000 map had paths marked on and our 1:25,000 had the detail. Following cairns across rough scree slopes and then 2 km of boulder fields did slow us down. There were however plenty of mountains and flowers, and we got back to the barn an hour before an almighty electrical storm.
After two days of life inside a cloud at the barn, the weather turned and we capitalised on the opportunity to venture out. Destination Aulus and Pique Rouge de Bassies.
Parked at Coumebiere and headed south past the old gold mines to Col de las Fouzes. At the Col we turned right to follow the ridge to Pique Rouge de Bassies via Pic des Planes, Pic des Fouzies and Pic de Caumale.
From Bassies our intention was to take the ridge to Pic des Trois Comte. There are various reports on the web about the ridge so we went armed with a rope and some gear. After a 15 minute sortie we decided that it was too much adventure on an unideal day so backtracked.
Plan B was put into action to retreat via the Etangs des Lavants de l’Escale to the Refuge de Bassies, pick up the GR10 back to the van.
A grey day as we set off from Col de la Pause but that burnt off as we climbed to Etang D’Areau. We tried to find a path behind the refuge to contour around to the Col above Cabane D’Aula. In this respect we were wholely unsuccessful. We found a path that headed in the general direction (probably made by sheep), this then diverged into many smaller paths as each sheep chose their own way. After battling tussocks, thistles and nettles we gained the col and headed up the ridge up to Tuc des Fourmiguet and down to join the GR10.
This we took down to Cabane D’Aula for lunch and to admire the horses, then back up to the col via a well marked path. More new flowers and half a dozen isard between the cabane and the col. From the Col we followed the marked path back down to the first shepherd’s hut just off the 4×4 track and back to the van at Col de la Pause.
