A windy day with blue skies. We started from the mine above Salau in the shade and only got to sunshine when we reached the Pis Noir after 2 hours in the cool. Ascended to Tuc du Pis Noir with great views of Mont Rouch to the west. Picked our way up to the French Spanish border and turned left (east) towards Cap de Rhuos. Windy on the ridge and lovely scrambling with minimal loose rock. Did not see a soul all day. Animal count included: stripy cows, sheep, an izard, an audience of vultures, and various other birds. We heard a marmot but didn’t see it. Grand day out and right on the doorstep.
Carolyn and Dawn met at the chalet in Chamonix in the winter and have become firm friends. They flew out to Carcasonne and then drove over to the barn. Keen walkers we had a list of possible itineraries depending on the weather and fitness levels. An interest was expressed in hiking in to Spain for a night so a menu plan was also kind of flexible.
Paella on the first night of arrival has become a bit of a signature for a first stay at the barn. This one got cooked indoors as the wind was too strong and kept blowing out the gas.
Day one we went over to Pic des Trois Seigneurs with an early start to beat the heat. One of our favourite walks although it is just over an hours drive away. It has a bit of everything with a reasonably high start point at Port de Lers, steep up the ridge, then a fantastic ridge walk with amazing views all the way to the summit of Trois Seigneurs. The descent takes in the Etang d’Arbu for a swim then a hot walk down to a bend in the road below the parking at Port de Lers. We actually parked at the bend and walked up to the start to avoid walking the road in the heat of the day at the end. The van said the temperature was 39 degrees when we finished.
Cooling in the river on arrivalCarolyn and DawnOn the ridgeAl Carolyn and DawnAscent of the ridgeView of the routeGoatsGoatsBreezyDawn on the Trois SeigneursSummit of the Trois SeigneursSummit photoSummit photoSwim in the lake on the descentCooling measures
Forecast for the next couple of days was marginal but we committed to walking from the barn over Port de Salau and down to the Refuge Fornet in Spain. Stay the night there and then return via the Port d’Aula. We had done a car drop on the road to Col de la Pause the day before to make the return easier. A Dutch friend Miriam joined us which was great.
We started in cloud and much cooler temperatures, only reaching sunshine when we reached Cabane des Lannes. What fantastic views of the mountains peaking through a sea of cloud. We dried out in the last 240m to the Col.
The descent path down to Refuge Fornet was much better marked than last time we did it and Spain was completely clear of cloud.
A couple of beers on the terrace, a couple of games of dice and a lovely meal before bed and an early start the next day. Unfortunately it started to spit with rain just as we set off. Waterproofs came off once we reached the grass roofed cabane above Borda de Perosa. Not so well marked route took us up to Port d’Aula in very light drizzle. Wind at the frontier pushed us down the hill to Etang d’Areau, just above the cloud level, where we had a buffet lunch from the contents of everyone’s rucksacks. The descent through the cloud on the GR10 to the car was eased with a word game of professions starting with the letter H.
Beers at the Auberge in Salau before outdoor showers at the barn and chilli con carne with cauliflower rice.
Cascade LeziouCascade LeziouFernLeft luggage at the toilet stopReturn from the looJust out of the cloudTime to dry outAbove the cloud Just above the cloudMisty pylonPylon being reclaimed by the earthPort de SalauPort de SalauPort de SalauThistleView in to SpainFluffy eared cawWaymarkerCelebration on arrivalCelebration on arrivalSwallotailBorda IgnasiaMiriam and CarolynDamp hikersLast uphill to Port d’AulaPort d’AulaPort d’AulaDescent from Port d’AulaMont VallierPic de la FontaRefuge l’ArreauRefuge l’ArreauRefuge l’Arreau
The last day of their stay was very wet. The fire was lit and games were played. A nice finale and a chance to recover. Thank you.
Due to an administrative issue we only hosted Charlie (Breezy’s younger Brother) and Liv (his daughter). If all four who planned to visit, had made it out, the fridge would have struggled to keep up with demand for nourishment and refreshment. As it was, we ran out of rose wine on the last night and had to resort to Muscat as a digestive.
Apart from moving the cars off the car parking area so we could use it as a boules pitch, we didn’t drive anywhere and based ourselves at the barn. Temperatures soared to 35 degrees and the plunge pool in the river saw considerable action. In between feeding, drinking and dunks in the Salat we:
Took a stroll up the valley and round the back of the barn to get the lay of the land.
Learnt a new version of the dice game from Charlie and Livs
Edged the pathway to the gable end with long logs
Re-edged a flower bed with left over logs
Threw some knives at a home made target
Took the tree-house platform down and salvaged what was reusable
Star gazed on the helipad where Liv saw her first shooting stars
Played cribbage, Liv’s won.
Chopped down a tree to make some legs for a log hive
Devoured a catering size pack of coco pops (well, Liv did)
Pealing bark off logsPaella prepCrazy camera angleBreezy and LivOn the walkAll fourLiv cooking sausagesPaellaPlunge poolOutdoor showerLiv winning CribbageBBQStargazingOn the front terraceLivLivLunchLunchBreakfastCooling offSmall cascadeWine on the helipadAperos
Thanks for coming, all the help, great banter, games and much needed catch up and we will look forward to seeing Becs and Betsy out here next year with you.
Enjoy Bergerac with all of Bec’s famille. A bientot!
A gorgeous day without a cloud in the sky. Parked at Col de la Core and set off on the GR10 to Etang Ayes. Broke off from the GR and headed over to Etang Milouga where we stopped for lunch. A 1hr climb up to Col de Pouech overlooking Refuge Estagnous, our destination for the night. 15Km, 7.15hrs walking and 1800m ascent.
Highlights were the variety of cabins seen on route in the mountains. We also saw a huge flock of big birds over Bouirex on the other side of Col de la Core when we were near Ayes. There must have been about 100 of them. They then flew across and over us. We think they were black kites. Lastly, we picked up some delightful company for half the day. We saw her setting off with someone from the Col where we parked, then we picked her up where we left the GR10. A lovely brown dog (we called Flo), with no name tag. She lead the way to the refuge then found some new friends with a tent she could stay in.
Natural rockeryCol de la CoreCabane d’AuedoleCol d’AuedoleEtang d’AyesBlack KiteBlack KiteReflectionsSemperviumsCabane CampulsCabane du taus du ValierFloFloMilougaMilougaKnautiaMilougaCabane d’EspuguesEtang rondBreezyPre sunsetSunset watchersSunset from the refuge Estagnous
Day two was a long day. Alarm at 0630hrs and away by 0715hrs. Up Valier where we had the summit to ourselves for half an hour before heading down. Retraced our steps back to Milouga and then up to Cabane d’Espugues and steeply up to Col de Craberous. Mackerel tacos for lunch then we descended the Chemin de Libertee back to Col de la Core. 21Km, 9.25hrs and 1600m ascent.
If you do the Chemin de Libertee backwards, is it the Chemin de Captivite?
Early morning on ValierEarly morning on ValierEarly morning on ValierView of Mont Rouch from ValierCloud over SeixEtangs Rond and LongDescentCabane d’EspuguesCabane d’EspuguesAlpine Aster
The Pujada is when French and Catalonians meet at the Port de Salau. There are speeches, sharing of wine and cheese, some music and some very dodgy dancing. We needed the exercise and it is on our doorstep so we went.
The clouds were down but there were odd windows where blue sky was visible so we were looking forward to spectacular views of a cloud filled valley from the col. We did get some lovely views but were disappointed as the cloud followed us up the hill and engulfed the col.
Sandwich and flask and down again to get some outdoor chores done at the barn.
Walking up through the forestFunky cloudsShepherds counting sheepSwirling cloudsSwirling cloudsThistleThe warm-up guitaristPujada engulfed in cloudVultureCascade Leziou
It has been 8 years since they visited us at the barn from Chamonix. I honestly can’t remember what stage we had got it to then. I think last time Patrick was helping dig a drain at the back to alleviate some of the humidity inside on the ground floor.
This time was much more relaxed as all the major work has been done. We managed to get a mountain bike ride in from Oust and a hike up Pic de Seron with a swim in the lake.
Thank you all for making the effort. Tood, by the way, is a dog and just comes along. Great to see you all.
Sauze and PatrickAscent of Pic SeronAl and PatrickSauze and BreezyPatrickNote in the Cabane TurgillaSwimReeds in the last lakeReeds in the last lake
Always got a plan. This time it involved a trip to Spain to stay at the Certescan Refuge. We left the barn early to get to the parking for Cirque du Cagateille. Picked up a couple of hitch hikers on the way who were also heading for Certescan.
Set off up to Etang Hillette in the shade before the sun got too high, then on up to Col de Colatx. The only people we saw were the couple we gave a lift to and a shepherd. From the Col we turned west and started along the ridge towards Certescan. At this stage clouds were enveloping Certescan and Montabone which did not look favourable.
Good progress to Pic de Soune on sound, solid granite rock. From there onwards we encountered some loose sections and some exciting scrambling. We dropped off the ridge to the Spanish side twice to miss out sections of grade 4 down climbing which we deemed too risky and finished up the snowy scree between Certescan Nord and the Spanish Certescan. After a late lunch we traipsed down to the Col where the HRP heads down to Refuge Certescan arriving there with time to freshen up before dinner.
View down the valley from Etang HilletteEtang HilletteEtang HilletteEtang HilletteEtang HilletteAt Col de ColatxClassic Pyrenees shepherdSpanish lakesCloud swirling around CertescanEtang de CertescanEtang HilletteFirst views of lake CertescanBig boulder hoppingPart of the ridgeEtang BlancBreezy testing new gaitersIzardMont RouchThe route off CertescanSpainEtang BlancOn top of CertescanIzardSwirling clouds near the refugeDay one
Another early start and lukewarm coffee before heading round east to Etang de Romedo de Dait and Romedo de Baix. Turned North on to the Guilo lakes and up to the Col de Guilo. Decided to go over Pic Turguilla and then down via Cabanede Turguilla. Passed Etang de la Piede where we picked up the trail back to Cirque de Cagataille. This last trail we would not opt to do again as very steep and greasy rock hopping with long grass obscuring where one wanted to place feet. Picked up Poppy in 33 degrees of heat and back to the barn.
Early morning startEarly reflectionsCertescan and the ridge from day oneGentieneCabane de LastouCabane de LastouAscent of TurguillaArnicaArnicaRock shelter
The first day was over 2500m of ascent, 17km and took us ten and a half hours. Day two was 800 m and another 17km with lots of downhill.
It’s great to be able to walk out of the door and access the French Spanish frontier. It’s about a 1000m of up and is quite gentle. There are always new things to see and it is always changing with the light and the clouds.
Satan BoleteThe line of old pylonsHelicopter bringing supplies to the shepherdsHeight marker at Cabane des LannesSheep on the hillThistle and beeHistorical building at Port de SalauHistorical building at Port de SalauHistorical building at Port de SalauSpanish shepherds
One of those lucky days when the choice made was perfect for the weather. Left the parking early enough for the ascent to be virtually all in the shade. Had a snack at Etang Hilette by the erratic boulder, then on to Etang D’Alet for lunch and a dip in the water for those who wanted. Thanks for a great day with Lee and Suzie.
Looking over the cloudsAstrantia MajorAlpine AvensEtang D’AletFrog Heath Spotted-orchid Heath Spotted-orchid Wolf’s-bane Etang HiletteLee & SuzieErratic boulderWild daisyGentiana burseri Lapeyr European arnica Heath Spotted-orchid Ibex with youngYoung IbexWindow in the cloud
Another weather window appeared for the Carlit area to the East of us. This is the year to go places anew. Two nights away so potential for walking 3 days.
Day One – Pic de Tarbesou
Left the barn early and picked up a map (and had a coffee) in Ax Les Thermes before heading up to park at Col de Pailheres – 2000m. Steady climb up to the Pic at 2364m then took the ridge towards Col de L’Esue and dropping down to the lakes. Etang bleu and Etang Noir. Lots of people at the lakes both in and out of the water, as a very popular walk. Windy and clear skies until we climbed to the Col de la Coumelle and the other side was a swirling mass of cloud. 11.4km and 850m of ascent, a nice half day walk.
View from Pic TarbesouMountain ViewSelfieEtang NoirDead Tree artBreezyMountain ViewDead Tree art
Day Two – Porta to Pic de Carlit
Stayed the night at a little Auberge in Porta and they, very kindly, let us leave the car. Early start and self service breakfast before finding the track up to Col de L’Homme Mort and on up to the ridge by El Punxo. From there we followed the ridge North towards Carlit. Easy undulating ridge to start with becoming more technical and blowing a whooly. Cloud was swirling around the summit of Carlit threatening to obscure the ridge ahead. This would have made progress and navigation very tricky but were were in luck. It lifted.
The latter third of the ridge was slow going as some serious scrambling on the limit of requiring a rope. The first people we met were on the summit of Carlit. Easy, but long, descent down to the Refuge Bouillouses at the reservoir. Just renovated, it was more like a hotel and not busy so we had our own room. Food was great.
24km 2014m of ascent and just under 10 hrs.
White-leaved Ragwort GentienePic de CarlitPic de CarlitCarlit ridgeIbexIbexCarlit ridgeCarlit ridge Recurved Sandwort White-leaved Ragwort White-leaved Ragwort Alpine AsterUnknown bird White Saxifrage Cob-webbed Houseleek Field locoweed View to AndorraOminous cloud over CarlitCol de L’Homme MortEarly morning flick
Day 3 – Refuge Bouillouses to Porta
Having had a long day we had to then get back to the car. The previous day was the most direct route so this had to be longer though not as much vertical. Wind was just as strong if not more so. Took the GR up to Portella de la Grave and on to Cabane Rouzet at the East end of Etang des Lanoux. Followed that to the dam wall and then the GR down to Porte Puymorens. Would have been better rout to follow the valley floor path than the GR, as we had little shade on a boring rocky track. We were melting in the heat by the time we got to the village so stuck our thumbs out and got a lift the last 4km to Porta. 37 degrees when we got back to the car. In all 25km 1000m and 7.5 hrs not including the lift
View of the Porta Carlit ridgeAnother birdShort haircutLooking back from the Port de GraveCotton grassCotton grassCascadesPath up the valleyIsland in the reservoirMorning sun over the water