Breezy and I had already decided to go hiking when we got an email from Lee with an idea. This involved meeting at the mine above Salau at 9am the following day and following Lee. Not strictly fair, in that we did know where we were going. Montareing was on Lee’s short list of peaks he had not ascended so far and he had a cheeky little route to get to it which we had not done before. We climbed to Cabane Saube then took a little track off to the west to cross the ridge into the woods and up to a ruin of Cabane Fontaret. From there an indistinct path unmarked by cairns, signs, paint or even a path in places ascended accross the valley and up through some rock bands to a Col (we followed Lee who had used said path before). From there we climbed up to Pic de Montareing via a newly built shepherd’s cabane.
Lunch, then just over an hour to traverse the scrambly ridge over to Cap de Rhuos accompanied by lots of Alpine Accentors. The descent was via Col de Crusous and the steep path (well marked with paint, cairns, and a deep rut in the ground) back to the van at the mine.
The trio on Rhuos
The way we came
Breezy and Al with Etang Mariola behind
Salau village from Rhuos
The ridge traverse
Traversing the ridge
Lee straddles the ridge
Breezy and Rhuos on the left with a panorama of Spain
Breezy and Cap Rhuos
The new cabane
Breezy and Salau
The route up
Salau from the frontier
After a few days of rain the weather broke and allowed an opportunity to get out in the hills. An early start at 8am to get to Guzet and the parking at Gerac with a picnic and after the usual mugs of coffee. It’s not our usual route to head down the ladders to the lakes so we missed it first off.
Once that issue was solved we followed the trail to Pointe Hilette and then just carried on up the arete to see how far we could get. Progress was slow as there was quite a bit of scrambling and difficult route finding in places with the odd breshe to cross. The latter part up to Rabassere was the easiest where we saw some other people for the first time since leaving the car park (strange that?).
From the peak we took the easiest way down to a Col above Etang Reglise where we picked up some cairns heading down to the lake. Nice option, we thought. All went smoothly until the cairns disappeared (in other words, we lost them) and the descent became slightly more precarious. Down climbing a waterfall at one point lead to a loose boulder field down to the Etang where we picked up the trail back to the car park. Another grand day out in the hills.
Etang Hilette and Certiscan
Our route up to the peak
Breezy on the Peak
Looking down on Etang Reglise
The route down to Etang Reglise
Our route from right to left up to the peak
For a much needed change of scene we headed to Auzat (to the East) where we parked at Cascade de l’Artigue after a coffee in town. Donned the hiking boots and large packs with food and camping kit and set off up the hill towards Refuge Pinet. The ascent was via Etang Sourd where we ate lunch by the shepherd’s cabane. At the refuge we met up with the guardian who suggested that we use the winter room rather than camp. She had a couple of helpers and all three were scuttling about getting the place ready to open the next day. As we ate our supper storm clouds were brewing so we opted for the winter room which we shared with a Mario from Briancon.
Our intention was to climb Pica d’Estats then Montcalm and take a different descent but the advice from the guardian was not to risk it with the snow conditions. There were some snow covered slabs and ropes and harnesses were required. She did say that we could leave our camping stuff at the refuge the next day and pick it up on the way down.
Leaving the hut at 8am, 80% of the ascent was on snow with great weather and amazing views. We shared Pica d’Estats with Mario spotting different peaks in the distance, then headed across to Montcalm which was less impressive. A quicker descent and reached the refuge just as a storm hit with thunder, lightning and torrential rain. Nice walk down after the storm and lunch back to the van.
Camped in Vic Dessous for a couple of night to get in a Via Ferrata at Goulier and some rock climbing. Even managed a meal out together (felt like a date).
View from Pic du Montcalm
With little of note to write about here is a selection of pictures for you.
Local walks over old and new terrain included Pot de Salau with Sherie and Michiel, Cirque D’Anglade with Spike the dog and a couple of little explores. The first was up to the old ruins of a Chateau above Pont de la Taule and an adventure above Saube exploring the inside of a cloud.
Breezy and Spike
Old house on Chemin des Chateau
Port de Salau
Old cable way, Port de Salau
Outside the cabane, Port de Salau
View towards Mont Rouch
Cabane des Maurets
The rest of the time we have been dodging rain, cutting back the forest, pottering with seedlings and filling holes in walls.
Breezy got the maps out again and selected a fantastic route which we had never taken from Col de la Pause. From the car park we took the 4×4 up to the first shepherd’s cabin and then a path off to the right towards a col and then down to Cabane D’Aula. Beautiful flowers on the way and a steep descent to the cabane. Then joined the GR10 to ascend back up to a col, at which point Breezy had spied a wee ridge with couple of small peaks which looked very doable.
Lunch spot was at the first small peak Pic de La Banque over looking Mt Valier and our route below. After a leisurely lunch we followed the ridge back to the first col of the morning and then a trundle back to Billy.
An amazing walk, made special with the abundance of amazing alpine flowers and having the place to ourselves.
View back to Col de la Pause
An invite to walk in the mountains with other people. What an exciting opportunity. Lee and Suze picked us up from Seix and we headed up to Col de la Core to meet the others. Another couple we knew and some newbies, even more exciting. From there we trundled up to Etang D’Eychelles for an early lunch. Then continued up the valley to Cabane D’Eychelles when we took off the path to the col behind it negotiating a few patches of snow. Following the ridge towards Vallier with stunning views we gained 3 peaks before descending from Col de la Crouzette via more snow to retrace our steps from the cabane. Amazing weather and great company with 1000m of ascent.
With the recent rainfall and the more relaxed travel limitations we decided to venture out of the valley for a hike up Cascade D’Ars. Having parked in Aulus we took the GR10 towards the cascade rather than taking the 4×4 track from the hairpin. It is a much more interesting route up the gorge and joins the 4×4 before the bridge. The Cascade itself was very impressive and definitely worthy of a few photos.
We climbed the trail up to the top of the cascade where we ate lunch before taking the loop back down through the forest. As we had no bread to make sandwiches I made two empanadas the night before with red pepper, onion, courgette, chorizzo and wild mushrooms (dried morrels, horn of plenty and ceps). Oh and half a boiled egg in each. At first I thought that I had made them a little on the large side but these Spanish equivalent of Cornish pasties were delicious and devoured accordingly. Thank you Mr Stein for the inspiration.
Having more time this season we are making better use of the garden. Rather than buying plugs and planting the salad crop we have taken to growing from seed. As most people have more time on their hands there is a lack of plants available to buy. Similar to toilet paper and bread flour. In fact there is also a lack of seeds. We however were lucky in ordering seeds online at the beginning of the winter.
We have various salad seeds and some hardy perennial flower seeds. Hopefully the additional flowers will provide us some colour all summer, (maybe not this summer but next could be great), and the salad stuff should keep us going to supplement the shopping.
So with all the above potential we decided to use some reclaimed double glazing units and make some cloches to bring on the seeds in the early season. And they worked brilliantly. We had dwarf French beans (non climbing variety rather than tiny beans), asparagus peas, several types of lettuce, courgettes and some flowers all in cloches when the sun came out one afternoon. We were out cutting back the forest and didn’t even think that the sun may be making our little plants a little warm. When we got back to the barn and took a peak inside great clouds of steam came out. All our little precious plants were cooked. What is more some of the plant pots had melted.
Lesson learnt – open the cloches in the morning in order to avoid our heat traps becoming solar ovens. Also we now have a second use for our cloches once we have enough plants. We can use them to heat water and even cook food, though the latter may take a little experimentation.
Now I have had the same set of wellies since I started caving in Derbyshire. They were all the rage when I bought them. Everyone (I say everyone, but actually only the people I caved with) had the same brand. I think they were called Sure Treads, but they were known as Sure Slips as wet limestone which has been polished by water tumbling over it at high pressure for hundreds of years is particularly slippy even with the best boots in the world. Until a couple of years ago I still had two strips of car inner tube around each ankle so that you could wear your Troll oversuit over the wellies and secure the bottom of the legs tightly to the boots. This meant that you could wade through deep water for short distances without getting wet feet. Deep is a relative term, I know; in this case deep is between knee and waist. If the water was over one’s head then the rubber bands failed to keep your feet dry. So these boots are now over thirty years old and sadly they have sprung a leak. Well, actually the right boot has sprung a leak. I tried gaffa tape and insulation tape to cover the offending slit but neither stayed on in the wet. It was fine when dry but not in the wet. And it’s in the wet that counts. If I only wore them in the dry they are actually still quite serviceable.
So, I have had to buy my second set of wellie boots. They are green and have treads on the soles. After thirty years the old ones were similar to racing slicks and skidded about all over the place. Maybe having graduated on wet limestone I didn’t notice the lack of grip. Or maybe over the years you don’t notice the gradual deterioration but they were worn out. The new boots also fit. This is also a revelation. I didn’t realise that wellie boots could fit. Not that I tried them on in the shop; I just selected a pair which stated they were the correct size, seemed to be intact and were middle of the range budget wise. What is more they fit around my calfs as well, especially when I am wearing my Seasalt Wellie Warmers inside. This is an added bonus as they gather no sawdust from the chainsaw. The good old Sure Treads were like funnels for sawdust, leaves and twigs, not to mention water. This was irritating to say the least. Not only did it mean stopping frequently to empty the detritus, but it also took ages picking the bits out of socks before they went in the wash. The snug calf fit also makes them quieter and the slapping noise of the top of the boot flapping against the leg as you walk has completely disappeared. I can imagine this would make them better for sneaking up on animals and people who weren’t deaf much easier.
I am contemplating administering a hole in the left boot, filling my old wellies with potting compost and planting strawberries in the top. After thirty years of mediocre service they deserve a second life and I think they will look rather good hanging on a wall around the barn. By the way, I do not recommend or condone the use of wellie boots in conjunction with a chainsaw. There are many boots which offer far better protection and are designed for the purpose.
Although the temperature has dropped it has not gone below zero. This is good news as the seedlings are still happy. It has just been wet. All sorts of wet from drizzle to downpours. Today for example it was mizzle in the morning, we had lunch in the sun on the front terrace. and then we were coppicing this afternoon and burning the scrub and it started raining. That is the second day on the trot that rain has stopped outdoor play. I am just pleased that I didn’t bother to water the plants in that I moved this morning. A Forsythia and a couple of red dogwoods are now in the front bed below the retaining wall. They are only a few centimeters tall but will grow into healthy shrubs (hopefully) courtesy of Keith Walker from Chamonix. Thanks Keith.
The other up side of mixed weather is the food. With less opportunity to get outdoor stuff done we spend more time looking at recipes and creating lovely meals. Thoroughly enjoying the Tray bake book and the Bosh book and playing with different breads.
Next up is to teach Breezy some rope tricks.
Light through leaves
Water on Euphorbia
Cauliflower and spring green tray bake with tahini dressing
Served with Chipati